Primitive Technology: Barrel Tiled Shed
I built a tiled roof shed to provide a fire and rain proof shelter for working on projects during wet weather and for storing firewood. The shed houses the very kiln used to fire its own tiles.
I cut timber using the stone hatchet and took it to the building site. 6 Upright posts were stuck into the ground about half a meter. Mortices were cut into the horizontal beams using a stone chisel to start with, then had there mortices enlarged using hot coals and a blow pipe to burn them out more. These beams were put in place and rafters were lashed on with lawyer cane. The wood that the tiles sit on are about 50 cm apart. The finished frame was 2 x 2 m in floor plan, 2 m tall at the ridge line and 1.5 m tall at the sides. This roof angle is about 22.5 degrees, half the pitch of the huts I usually make. This took about a week but I did it about 4 months ago and left the wood at the site because I was busy on other videos
Next I made a kiln. I made a basket to make it easier to carry clay from the creek. I dug a trench for the firebox of the kiln and made a clay vault over it using stick arches to support it. Holes were put into the vault to let flames through. The kiln shape was a cube with a domed roof. It was made of mud on site (clay from the creek is too good to build a kiln with and is best used for pottery). Grate bars were put into the firebox to increase wood burning efficiency by letting air come up through the wood rather than over it. This only took about 3 days to build letting it dry slowly.
To make the tiles, clay was collected and had the sticks and stones taken out of it. Then I crushed up old broken pottery and tiles I made before which I mixed with the clays as grog (stops clay from cracking). A tile frame was made from a split piece of lawyer cane bent into a trapezoidal shape about 50 cm long, 20 cm at the wide end and 16 cm at the narrow end. This was put on a flat stone. Wood ash was put down to stop the clay sticking to the rock. The clay was pressed into the fame and the wet tile was slid onto a curved piece of wood to form the curved shape of the barrel tile. The tile was then moved immediately to a flat area and the piece of wood was slid out so the tile sat on the ground to dry. Being curved, air could get under the tile to help dry it out.
I could make 30 tiles easily in a day and only had 150 to make. But it kept raining and destroying the tiles before they dried. So I had to make 30 tiles, let them dry enough to be moved, then take them to the tiled hut where they were force dried on the ondol (fire heated bed). The majority of the time spent on this project was re-making broken tiles due to unseasonal rain (I don’t think we have a proper dry season here anymore, this is what held up my other tiled hut too). So this whole part probably took 4 weeks.
Firing the tiles was easy compared to the other tiled hut I built. I could fit 30 tiles in the kiln at once and had 150 tiles to fire. The 5 firings took 5, 4.5, 3.5, 4.5 and 3.5 hours. The first one probably took longer due to the kiln not being dry yet and the 4th firing took a while due to wet firewood. Tiling the roof was also easy. Starting at one end, tiles were laid so that the concavity faced up and the narrow end pointed into the next tile below acting like a shoot for water to run down. The gaps between these tiles was covered using a tile with the concavity facing down and the narrow end pointing up under the next tile above. The ridge of the hut was covered with the same tiles interlocking to keep rain out. The low roof pitch, the weight and friction of the tiles, the fact that they interlock all help to keep the tiles in place meaning they don’t need tabs or pegs to hold them in place.
The roof sheds rain and is fireproof. This will provide a workplace for fire related projects in all weather. Walls were not built as this is a place for working and storing firewood, not sleeping and staying warm. Also, light can come in so it’s easy to see during work. The kiln worked ok and was able to handle a larger volume of tiles than the previous kiln I built (having over 4 times the volume) though I might investigate better kiln designs in future to attain higher temperatures and use less firewood. The roof of this shed has a lower angle to my other huts meaning it has more headroom. Ideally barrel tiles should be used at about 30 degrees as opposed to the 22.5 I used but being a small shelter I don’t think the water will build up and seep through. A large house would use a slightly steeper angle.
I cut timber using the stone hatchet and took it to the building site. 6 Upright posts were stuck into the ground about half a meter. Mortices were cut into the horizontal beams using a stone chisel to start with, then had there mortices enlarged using hot coals and a blow pipe to burn them out more. These beams were put in place and rafters were lashed on with lawyer cane. The wood that the tiles sit on are about 50 cm apart. The finished frame was 2 x 2 m in floor plan, 2 m tall at the ridge line and 1.5 m tall at the sides. This roof angle is about 22.5 degrees, half the pitch of the huts I usually make. This took about a week but I did it about 4 months ago and left the wood at the site because I was busy on other videos
Next I made a kiln. I made a basket to make it easier to carry clay from the creek. I dug a trench for the firebox of the kiln and made a clay vault over it using stick arches to support it. Holes were put into the vault to let flames through. The kiln shape was a cube with a domed roof. It was made of mud on site (clay from the creek is too good to build a kiln with and is best used for pottery). Grate bars were put into the firebox to increase wood burning efficiency by letting air come up through the wood rather than over it. This only took about 3 days to build letting it dry slowly.
To make the tiles, clay was collected and had the sticks and stones taken out of it. Then I crushed up old broken pottery and tiles I made before which I mixed with the clays as grog (stops clay from cracking). A tile frame was made from a split piece of lawyer cane bent into a trapezoidal shape about 50 cm long, 20 cm at the wide end and 16 cm at the narrow end. This was put on a flat stone. Wood ash was put down to stop the clay sticking to the rock. The clay was pressed into the fame and the wet tile was slid onto a curved piece of wood to form the curved shape of the barrel tile. The tile was then moved immediately to a flat area and the piece of wood was slid out so the tile sat on the ground to dry. Being curved, air could get under the tile to help dry it out.
I could make 30 tiles easily in a day and only had 150 to make. But it kept raining and destroying the tiles before they dried. So I had to make 30 tiles, let them dry enough to be moved, then take them to the tiled hut where they were force dried on the ondol (fire heated bed). The majority of the time spent on this project was re-making broken tiles due to unseasonal rain (I don’t think we have a proper dry season here anymore, this is what held up my other tiled hut too). So this whole part probably took 4 weeks.
Firing the tiles was easy compared to the other tiled hut I built. I could fit 30 tiles in the kiln at once and had 150 tiles to fire. The 5 firings took 5, 4.5, 3.5, 4.5 and 3.5 hours. The first one probably took longer due to the kiln not being dry yet and the 4th firing took a while due to wet firewood. Tiling the roof was also easy. Starting at one end, tiles were laid so that the concavity faced up and the narrow end pointed into the next tile below acting like a shoot for water to run down. The gaps between these tiles was covered using a tile with the concavity facing down and the narrow end pointing up under the next tile above. The ridge of the hut was covered with the same tiles interlocking to keep rain out. The low roof pitch, the weight and friction of the tiles, the fact that they interlock all help to keep the tiles in place meaning they don’t need tabs or pegs to hold them in place.
The roof sheds rain and is fireproof. This will provide a workplace for fire related projects in all weather. Walls were not built as this is a place for working and storing firewood, not sleeping and staying warm. Also, light can come in so it’s easy to see during work. The kiln worked ok and was able to handle a larger volume of tiles than the previous kiln I built (having over 4 times the volume) though I might investigate better kiln designs in future to attain higher temperatures and use less firewood. The roof of this shed has a lower angle to my other huts meaning it has more headroom. Ideally barrel tiles should be used at about 30 degrees as opposed to the 22.5 I used but being a small shelter I don’t think the water will build up and seep through. A large house would use a slightly steeper angle.
원시 기술 : 배럴 기와 창고
나는 우기 동안의 프로젝트 작업과 장작 보관을 위해 화재 및 비가 오는 대피소를 제공하기 위해 기와 지붕 헛간을 만들었습니다. 창고에는 자체 타일을 발사하는 데 사용 된 가마가 있습니다.
나는 돌 모자이크를 사용하여 목재를 자르고 그것을 건축 현장에 가져 갔다. 6 개의 직립 기둥이 반 미터 정도 땅에 꽂혔다. 선석을 사용하여 수평선에 모따기를 자르고 그 다음에 더운 석탄과 불어 파이프를 사용하여 더 큰 구멍을 뚫어서 더 많이 불 태우게했다. 이 광선은 제자리에 놓 였고 서까래는 변호사 지팡이로 채찍질되었습니다. 타일이 붙어있는 목재는 약 50cm 떨어져 있습니다. 완성 된 프레임은 평면도에서 2 x 2 m, 능선에서 2 m, 측면에서 1.5 m 높이다. 이 지붕 앵글은 약 22.5도, 보통 내가 만든 오두막의 절반 정도입니다. 이것은 약 일주일이 걸렸지 만 약 4 개월 전에 해봤 다. 다른 비디오를 보느라 바빴 기 때문에 사이트를 떠났다.
다음으로 나는 가마를 만들었다. 나는 개울에서 점토를 운반하기가 더 쉽도록 바구니를 만들었다. 나는 가마의 화실 상자를 파헤 치고 그것을 지탱하기 위해 막대기 아치를 사용하여 진흙 상자를 만들었다. 둥근 천장에 구멍을 뚫어 불길을 통과 시켰습니다. 가마 모양은 돔형 지붕이 달린 큐브였습니다. 그것은 사이트에서 진흙으로 만들어졌습니다 (크릭의 찰흙은 가마를 만들기에는 너무 좋으며 도기로 사용하는 것이 가장 좋습니다). 화격자 막대는 목재가 아닌 목재를 통해 공기가 들어 오도록하여 화분 연소 효율을 높이기 위해 화실에 설치되었습니다. 이것은 서서히 건조하게 만드는 데에만 약 3 일이 걸렸습니다.
타일을 만들기 위해 찰흙을 모으고 막대기와 돌을 꺼내었다. 그 다음 나는 낡은 깨진 도기와 타일을 짓 눌렀다. 그 전에 내가 점토로 섞은 것을 grog (크래킹에서 점토를 멈추게한다)로 섞었다. 타일 프레임은 50cm 길이의 사다리꼴 형태로 구부러진 변호사 지팡이의 조각으로 만들어졌으며 넓은 끝은 20cm, 좁은 끝은 16cm로 만들었습니다. 이것은 평평한 돌 위에 올려 놓았다. 나무 재는 바위에 달라 붙는 찰흙을 멈추기 위해 내려졌습니다. 찰흙은 명성으로 눌러지고 젖은 도와는 구부려 진 나무 조각에 미끄러 져 배럴 타일의 곡선 모양을 형성했다. 타일은 그 다음 즉시 평평한 지역으로 옮겨졌고 나무 조각은 밖으로 밀려 나갔다. 구부러진 상태로 공기가 타일 밑으로 들어가 건조를 돕습니다.
나는 하루에 30 개의 타일을 쉽게 만들 수 있었고 150 개만 만들 수있었습니다. 그러나 그들은 건조하기 전에 비가 계속해서 비가 내렸다. 그래서 저는 30 개의 타일을 만들어야 만 움직일 수있을 정도로 말랐습니다. 그런 다음 타일을 붙인 오두막집으로 가져 가면 온돌 (온열 침대)에서 말라 버렸습니다. 이 프로젝트에 소비 된 대부분의 시간은 비 계절적인 비 때문에 부서진 타일을 재창조하는 것이 었습니다. (우리는 더 이상 여기 건전한 계절이 아니라고 생각합니다. 이것은 다른 타일 된 오두막을 너무 올려 놓았습니다.) 그래서이 부분 전체는 아마도 4 주 걸렸을 것입니다.
타일을 발사하는 것은 다른 타일로 만든 오두막에 비해 쉽습니다. 나는 한 번에 가마에 30 개의 타일을 넣을 수 있었고, 150 개의 타일을 발사 할 수있었습니다. 5 번 발사에는 5, 4.5, 3.5, 4.5 및 3.5 시간이 소요되었습니다. 첫 번째 것은 아마도 아직 건조되지 않은 가마로 인해 더 오래 걸렸을 것이고 4 번째 발사는 젖은 장작으로 인해 한참 걸렸을 것입니다. 지붕을 바둑판 식으로 배열하는 것도 쉬웠다. 한쪽 끝에서 시작하여 타일이 깔려 오목면이 위로 향하게되고 좁은 끝이 아래의 타일로 향하게되어 물이 아래로 떨어지도록 촬영합니다. 이 타일들 사이의 틈은 아래쪽을 향한 오목한면이있는 타일과 위의 다음 타일 아래를 가리키는 좁은 끝을 사용하여 덮여있었습니다. 오두막의 산등성이는 비가 내리기 위해 연동되는 동일한 타일로 덮여있었습니다. 낮은 지붕 피치, 타일의 무게와 마찰, 그들이 타일을 제 위치에 유지하는 데 도움이되는 것은 타일이나 펙을 필요로하지 않는다는 의미입니다.
지붕은 비를 내뿜으며 내화성이 있습니다. 이것은 모든 날씨의 화재 관련 프로젝트를위한 작업장을 제공 할 것입니다. 벽은 장작이 아니라 fire감을 저장하고 저장하기위한 장소이기 때문에 지어지지 않았습니다. 또한 빛이 들어올 수 있으므로 작업하는 동안 쉽게 볼 수 있습니다. 나는 더 높은 온도를 달성하고 더 적은 장작을 사용하기 위해 더 나은 가마 디자인을 조사 할 지 모르지만 가마는 잘 작동하고 내가 만든 이전 가마보다 많은 양의 타일을 처리 할 수있었습니다 (4 배 이상). 이 창고의 지붕은 다른 오두막에 비해 더 낮은 각도를 가지고있어 헤드 룸이 더 많습니다. 이상적으로 배럴 타일은 사용 된 22.5와 반대로 약 30도에서 사용해야하지만 작은 쉼터 인 나는 물이 쌓이지 않고 새어 나올 것이라고 생각하지 않습니다. 큰 집은 약간 가파른 각도를 사용합니다.
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